Set off along the Saint-Guilhem trail, covering 165 km and offering a wealth of experiences: stunning scenery, meeting new people, food and drink tastings…
A week’s holiday – that was all the time we had to tackle a section of the GR trail with a group of friends. Lozère and the Chemin de Saint-Guilhem were the obvious choice: halfway between Montpellier, Clermont-Ferrand, Lyon and Toulouse, it was ideal as it meant nobody had too far to travel. So, the six of us car-pooled to our starting point: Aumont-Aubrac. Here we go for a week of adventures on the Saint-Guilhem Way!
- 145 €
- average budget
- 165 km
- route
- 7 days
- roaming on average
Exploring the Aubrac Plateau
Aumont-Aubrac to Nasbinals
6.30 am. The alarm goes off. After putting on my shoes and wolfing down a few slices of toast for energy, we set off. Today, we’re going to explore the Aubrac plateau and walk 27 kilometres across it. After a few kilometres, the sun starts to warm our faces and calves. We come across a few groups of young and not-so-young people who are wearing their scallop shells and walking the Way of St James from start to finish. Perhaps one day we’ll find enough free time together to do the same! But for now, we’re heading off the trail for a few kilometres to see the Déroc waterfall. And what a sight! The Salhiens stream plunges some thirty metres, behind which lies a cave adorned with basalt prisms.
Nasbinals at the Refuge des Rajas
We rounded off yesterday’s day with a visit to the church in Nasbinals. And today, we’re covering two stages in one! We set off in high spirits so as not to waste any time on this long day. We catch up with the groups of pilgrims we walked with yesterday, then part ways halfway along the route: they carry on westwards whilst we head south towards the Rajas refuge. There, Denise is waiting for us with the warmest of welcomes. And we listen intently as she tells us the story of this timeless place, which – contrary to what one might think – wasn’t a buron (we’ve come across plenty of those over the first two days!), but a building where buron-dwellers and shepherds would gather to have a drink and play cards. Sausage on aligot: a sunset in blazing colours brings the day to a close.
The Rajas in La Canourgue
We leave the Rajas refuge with a twinge of sadness, and soon it will be the Aubrac’s turn. But before that, we pass by the Relais des Lacs – home to the best aligot in the area, if Denise is to be believed; we’ll have to come back to try it! As we wind our way gently down towards the Lot Valley, there are numerous stunning, unobstructed views. This morning’s 180° panorama gradually narrows as we make our way towards La Canourgue.
Adventure in the Grands Causses
La Canourgue to Sainte-Enimie
La Canourgue certainly lives up to its nickname, ‘the little Venice of Lozère’! There are canals everywhere, and you really notice them as you walk through this village and its market. Then we begin the climb up to our first Causse, the Causse de Sauveterre. This limestone plateau is dotted with cultivated fields and flocks of sheep. We come across no fewer than ten of them in the space of just a few kilometres, before the descent – and the stunning views! – towards the Gorges du Tarn and Sainte-Enimie. Legend has it that here, in Sainte-Enimie, Princess Enimie was cured of leprosy thanks to the Burle spring. The village’s medieval alleyways lend it a special charm with their artisans’ stalls, so much so that it is listed among the most beautiful villages in France!
Sainte Enimie – Hures-la-Parades
The stages are getting shorter; we’ll soon be reaching the end of our journey. As we climb onto another Causse, we leave Sainte-Enimie and the Gorges du Tarn behind us. Along the way, we arrive at the Causse Méjean and its desert-like landscapes. As this stage is short, we decide to extend it slightly to go and see the Przewalski’s horses, these prehistoric animals whose reserve on the Méjean serves as a stepping stone to their reintroduction into thewild in Mongolia.
Przewalski’s Horses
Throughout the year, the Takh association, which manages the Przewalski’s horse reserve, offers immersive two-hour tours. You’ll get up close to the Przewalski’s horses and learn everything there is to know about them. A word to the wise…
Let’s head for the Gorges de la Jonte
Hures la Parade in Meyrueis
We round off our journey across the Causse Méjean by exploring the Gorges de la Jonte, the second natural boundary of this area. Some describe it as an ‘island in the sky’, and now we can see why! The descent towards Meyrueis is a gentle one, with regular stops to admire the sheer cliffs that climbers are tackling. Suddenly, shadows appear on the cliffs: looking up at the sky, we spot numerous vultures gliding on the air currents. They’ll accompany us on our descent all the way to Meyrueis.
Meyrueis at L’Espérou
The last day of our hike, and certainly not the least: we’re tackling the famous Mont Aigoual. The climb really puts our already aching calves through their paces. But what a reward when we reach the summit: a breathtaking 360° view of the Cévennes! On our way down from this Cévennes peak, we marvelled at the Bramabiau chasm before reaching our final destination. With aching legs and backs, but our minds cleared and our hearts full, we made the most of our final moments of the holiday and learnt that there are other GR trails winding through Lozère. That certainly didn’t fall on (several) deaf ears!
Plan your stay
Where to eat, where to stay, what to do?
Discover all our top tips for an authentic and enjoyable hike along the Saint Guilhem Way.
Massive and mountains
How do I get there?
- By car or carpool: the A75 runs very close to Aumont-Aubrac: take exit 36 if travelling from the south and exit 35 if travelling from the north.
- By tourist shuttle: in July and August, you can travel to Aumont-Aubrac from Mende on the Mende–Marvejols–Nasbinals shuttle.
- On foot, for long-distance travellers
