Whether with or without a donkey, set off on a two-day hike through the Cévennes, covering nearly 50 kilometres as you follow in the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson.
Whether on your own, with family or friends, with or without a donkey, set off on a two-day hike through the Cévennes, along the GR70 or Stevenson Trail. On the itinerary: nearly 50 kilometres of hiking in the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson, from Pont-de-Montvert to Cassagnas, via Florac.
Haven’t you heard of Stevenson? A Scottish writer, he was one of the pioneers of trekking, having decided to cross the Cévennes with his donkey Modestine… to get over a broken heart! He wrote a detailed account of his journey through the Cévennes: *Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes*. Published in 1879, this book inspired generations of walkers. Now it’s your turn: lace up your walking boots and come and walk along a legendary trail, regularly ranked amongst the French people’s favourite GR routes! Over the course of a weekend, you’ll cover two iconic sections of the GR70, before returning to your starting point by shuttle bus.
- 55 €
- average budget
- 50 km
- route
- 2
- days
The Call of Pont-de-Montvert
Although I’m itching to set off along the Stevenson Trail without further delay, I simply cannot resist the lure of the narrow streets of Pont-de-Montvert. Nestled at the confluence of the Tarn, the Rieumallet and the Martinet, the village could only have a bridge as its symbol. And what a bridge! An old humpback bridge, flanked by a toll tower. I can’t help but smile at the thought that Stevenson crossed this humpback bridge… with a donkey!
My distant memories of history lessons remind me that Le Pont-de-Montvert was also the scene of the Camisard uprising in 1702. A detour to the church and the temple therefore seems a must. Then, being the foodie that I am, I pop into the bakery, which has been highly recommended to me. With a loaf of rye bread and a chestnut fondant in my rucksack, I’m ready to follow the red and white markings… Casting one last admiring glance at the beautiful houses of Le Pont-de-Montvert, I set off. Heading for Florac, my stop for the night.
Conquering the Bougès ridges
To get things underway on this first day on the Stevenson Trail: a steep climb! Before long, Le Pont-de-Montvert is nothing more than a memory behind me. Step by step, I finally reach the Cham de l’Hermet plateau. I’ve already climbed over 200 metres, but as a reward, I come across a pretty vaulted sheepfold.
And in the distance, I spot two odd-looking hilltops. My guidebook tells me they are the Puechs des Bondons, which legend attributes to a certain Gargantua. I find them unusual, so round, as if weathered by time. And I wonder what the young Stevenson thought of them… I promise myself I’ll read his diary when I get back from the weekend to find out. But in the meantime, the path I’m following leads deep into a wood, before climbing back up almost as steeply.
At an altitude of 1,300 metres, the view opens up once more: here I am on the Bougès ridges. Just a little more effort, and I reach the Signal du Bougès at an altitude of 1,421 metres. This will be the highest point of my quick getaway along the GR70, so I take the time to savour the moment…
No one truly knows the stars unless they have slept, as the lovely French expression goes, ‘under the stars’. One may well know all their names, distances and magnitudes, and yet remain in the dark […]. The stars are the greatest source of poetry.
The GR®70: swimming and exploring Lozère’s heritage
The rest of my day is a succession of gentle slopes, leading me to the Baraque du Bonnal, then on to the Col du Sapet. There, I meet a couple of walkers who set off from Le Monastier with their donkey eight days earlier. We share our packed lunches and our thoughts on the trail, then I set off again: of the 28.5 km that make up this first stage, I still have 15 km to go before reaching Florac!
Wandering from valley to valley, I reach Cocurès and the banks of the Tarn, then Bédouès and its magnificent collegiate church. You simply can’t miss it – it stands proudly on a rocky outcrop! More unassuming, the Chapel of Saint-Saturnin has a lovely surprise in store for me: splendid paintings adorn its walls and ceilings. Over dinner, I learnt that it is one of the few chapels in the south of France to be entirely painted. But before that, I treated myself to a refreshing dip in the Tarn, then made my way into the little town of Florac.
Florac, the heart of the Cévennes
With a population of just 2,100, Florac is the smallest sub-prefecture in France! Yet the town I’m discovering is teeming with life and activity. Here, between the Causse Méjean, the Gorges du Tarn, the Cévennes and Mont-Lozère, walkers cross paths and mingle: there are those following the Chemin de Stevenson and those who have opted for the Chemin Urbain V, those doing the Tour du Mont-Lozère and those who prefer to hike in a radial pattern.
Greeting people as I go, I wander aimlessly through the narrow streets, stock up on Caussenarde terrine, and satisfy my curiosity about the Cévennes National Park within the walls of a feudal castle. Then my stomach leads me to the Cévennes Visitor Centre, my ‘home’ for the night. A hearty dinner awaits me there, along with a cosy bed: I’m not sure Stevenson was so lucky! I share my table with adventurers from all corners of Europe. Over a dinner with a local flavour, friendships are forged. That, too, is what the Stevenson Trail is all about.
Stevenson’s Trail, Day 2
A good night’s sleep is restorative, but waking up is no less of a shock. And with good reason: yesterday’s evening went on late into the night, and I need to cover the 17.4 km separating me from Cassagnas before 2 pm, to catch the shuttle that will take me back to Pont-de-Montvert. But it’s well worth the effort: I set off from Florac, still half-asleep, accompanied only by the murmur of the Tarnon, then the Mimente.
Whereas the day before the Stevenson Trail had presented me with its steep gradients, today it welcomes me gently. The kilometres fly by, through landscapes where schist reigns supreme. Its chocolate-brown colour is punctuated here and there by heathland dotted with delicate purple heather flowers and a delightful honeyed scent. I decide to treat myself to a break, to soak up this wild atmosphere and enjoy a few biscuits… made with honey, as it happens. A pure delight for the senses! And my discoveries aren’t over yet: as I round yet another bend in the Mimente, the mysterious silhouette of the Château de Saint-Julien-d’Arpaon appears before me…
Terminus: Cassagnas
Long after leaving Saint-Julien-d’Arpaon, the ghostly ruins of its castle continue to occupy my thoughts. I wonder what the castle looked like when Stevenson passed through, whilst letting my steps carry me a little closer every minute to my final destination: Cassagnas. And I couldn’t be more right when I say ‘final destination’. For, whilst exchanging a few words with three mountain bikers, I discover that I’m on an old railway line, and that Cassagnas is none other than a former railway station!
It is right outside the station that the shuttle I booked a few days earlier is waiting for me, to take me back to Le Pont-de-Montvert. Taking one last look at the Gorges de la Mimente and breathing in the fresh air of the Cévennes one last time, I bid farewell to the Chemin de Stevenson. But I’m certain of one thing: I’ll be back. And this time, I’ll carry on past the end of the trail to Saint-Jean-du-Gard. I’ll keep Stevenson company from one end of his trail to the other.
Plan your stay
Where to eat, where to stay, what to do?
Discover all our top tips for an authentic and enjoyable hike along the Stevenson Trail.
How do I get there?
- By car: to get to Pont-de-Montvert, you can take the D20 (north–south route) or the D998 (west–east route).
- By train: in Langogne, La Bastide-Puylaurent and Chasseradès, you can join the Stevenson Trail directly from the SNCF stations.
- By tourist shuttle: in July and August, minibuses criss-cross the Lozère region, providing access to the GR70, amongst other routes.
