Spend a night in a den, face to face with a pack of Polish wolves in the heart of Europe’s largest wolf park!
To plan our summer holidays, we came up with an equation with three unknowns: nature + not too far away + something out of the ordinary = the perfect destination. And after a bit of searching online, bingo – we found the answer: Lozère and its brand-new Parc des Loups du Gévaudan! So yes, the park has actually been around for about thirty years. But it got a complete makeover in 2020. It’s now the largest wolf park in Europe (no less!). And best of all, you can spend a night facing the pack of Polish wolves! A truly unforgettable experience that we’re not about to forget… and one we can’t recommend highly enough!
- 150 €
- per person
- 2
- days
Our first visit to the Gévaudan Wolf Park
As soon as we arrive in the Margeride highlands, we are plunged into the world of the Beast of Gévaudan, that ferocious creature which struck terror into the region between 1764 and 1767 by attacking young shepherds. And whose true nature remains, even today, a mystery. Brr, this story sends shivers down our spines!
But the park’s staff reassure us straight away: ‘real’ wolves don’t eat Little Red Riding Hoods. Phew! So, feeling fairly at ease, we step into the transparent tunnel that runs through the Siberian wolves’ enclosure. And we keep our eyes peeled, because on this summer’s afternoon, the wolves are hiding amongst the trees to enjoy the cool shade. Look, there’s one that seems to be stretching after a little nap! And two others, younger ones, racing each other! A little further on, we come to another new feature of the park: the panoramic walkway. It certainly lives up to its name: we’re looking down on the Canadian wolves, and we can see far, far, far into the distance!
For the little ones, games and more games
The afternoon continues, full of encounters with animals and thrilling moments. Look, here are the Mongolian wolves with their fawn-coloured coats. Then there are the black wolves, the latest arrivals at the reserve, and the Polish wolves. Not to mention the Arctic pack, which transports us straight to the Far North! At around 5 pm, keen to keep the suspense going a little longer before revealing our accommodation with a view of the wolves, we head for the Espace de la Devèze. In other words: ‘the’ children’s corner!
On the programme: giant wooden games (because there’s more to life than screens) and water fountains (because even at an altitude of 1,100 metres, it’s sweltering in the height of summer!). Then a short pony ride, to explore the nature reserve in a different way. The children are having the time of their lives, whilst we… we relax, breathe in the fresh, resin-scented air to the full, and simply savour the moment!
*It’s hot in Occitan*
Off to our holiday cottage… or rather, our den!
6.30 pm. The park is gradually emptying of its visitors. Soon, there will be nothing left but the hundred or so wolves… and us. Well, OK, we’re exaggerating a bit. Three other families have, like us, opted for the ultimate experience: a night facing the wolves, in a comfortable cottage… or rather a ‘den’, as they call them here!
Bialow, Ilonka, Taiga and Tundra: each cottage has its own nickname, referring to the wolves’ favourite habitats. As for us, we’ll be staying in ‘Ilonka’, with its wood-burning stove (we’ll have to think about coming back in winter, when the snow covers everything… It must be magical!), its mezzanine for the children… and, of course, the highlight of the show: the huge floor-to-ceiling window overlooking Poland’s wolf pack!
As we tuck into the meal that’s been delivered straight to our den, the wolves gradually shake off their lethargy. They shake themselves off and bicker. They wander off until they’re nothing more than a speck amongst the trees, then draw closer again. Until they’re within arm’s reach. You’d almost forget to breathe between mouthfuls!
A passionate guide and chatty wolves
As twilight casts mysterious shadows over the Margeride, we leave our hideaway. A light jumper is a must – the nights are chilly at this altitude! Near the reception area, we meet Sylvain, our guide. It’s 9.30 pm, and all is quiet. But not for long, Sylvain warns us. And with good reason: it’s at this late hour that the wolves are most active. So we must prepare ourselves to hear them howl…
In the meantime, we follow Sylvain through the reserve. As a true enthusiast, he knows every wolf and can recognise them, even at night and from a distance: a real feat! Canis lupus, Canis rufus & Canis simensis, dominance, predation, communication and reproduction: as the stories unfold, the wolves reveal their true nature. We discover, not without surprise, that wolves are far more sociable animals than in the fairy tales of our childhood… When suddenly, a cry pierces the night. The howl of a Mongolian wolf. Even though we’d been warned, we can’t help but jump!
An experience not to be missed – right through to the end of the night!
It’s almost 11 pm when we return to our cosy nest. The wolves are still there, behind the floor-to-ceiling window. We simply can’t take our eyes off the sight of these wild animals. The glances we exchange are fleeting, yet so intense. We’re as if hypnotised. Time slips by without us even realising it. We eventually slip under the duvet, reassured by the knowledge that we’ll see the wolves again when we wake up. And that we’ll be able to enjoy another day in their company. Because yes, our pass gives us access to the park for two days!
Tomorrow, after a hearty breakfast, we’ll continue exploring the reserve until we’ve had our fill of it. Only then will we bid farewell to the wolves… but certainly not to the Margeride! We’re looking forward to taking a dip in Lac du Moulinet, strolling amongst the stalls at Marvejols market, and exploring the Gallo-Roman town of Javols through augmented reality. Our holiday in Lozère has only just begun… but what a start!
Plan your stay
Book your den
How do I get there?
- By car: the Gévaudan Wolf Park is just a 10-minute drive from junction 37 on the A75. The journey takes 1 hour 45 minutes from Clermont-Ferrand, 2 hours 20 minutes from Montpellier and 3 hours from Toulouse.
- By tourist shuttle: in July and August, for just €2, shuttle bus no. 260 takes you to the Parc des Loups du Gévaudan from Mende and Marvejols.
