The Gorges du Tarn? Aubrac? The Cévennes Coastal Road? For our first getaway to Lozère, we weren’t quite sure where to start – there’s so much to choose from! After the winter break, we finally decided to go for the Aubrac, that vast granite plateau which has now been designated a ‘regional nature park’. On the agenda for the weekend: exploring, but also relaxing, enjoying the local cuisine and going for short walks. In short, the ingredients for a perfect weekend!
- 160 €
- average budget
- 3 days
- touring
Heading for the Col de Bonnecombe
Spring is here, and with it comes the urge to get out into the countryside. So, when the weekend rolled round, we set off from Montpellier early. Our destination: La Canourgue, the starting point for our getaway in the Lozère. Why La Canourgue? Firstly, because it’s right next to the A75, so it’s really easy to get to. Secondly, because we’d been strongly recommended to stroll along the canals of ‘Lozère’s Little Venice’. Finally, because the town is the southern gateway to the Aubrac… Our journey can (truly) begin! Leaving the Lot Valley at Viala, it doesn’t take us long to start climbing. The bends and gradients of the D56 first take us to Trélans, where we spot our first Aubrac cows – those cows with long eyelashes that look as if they’ve been lined with kohl. A few more kilometres, and here we are at the Col de Bonnecombe. At an altitude of 1,340 metres, the air is crisp, but the scenery is magnificent. We’ve officially reached the D52, better known as the ‘Route des Lacs’. And sure enough, the first lake stretches out before us!
The Porcini Fanatics
19 September 2026
Every year in September, Mende becomes the gastronomic capital of the ‘king of the forest floor’ during the “Toqués du Cèpe” festival. Spanning an entire weekend, this unmissable festival celebrates the porcini mushroom in all its forms and showcases the expertise of chefs, producers and local artisans from the Lozère region. On the programme: a…
Equestrian endurance: 160 km from Florac
19 September 2026
Every year, at the end of summer, Florac hosts one of Lozère’s most iconic equestrian endurance events: the 160 km of Florac. This legendary race invites riders and horses to take on a real challenge amidst the exceptional landscapes of the Cévennes. Along steep tracks and mountain paths, participants ride through spectacular scenery, taking in…
Phot'Aubrac Festival
17 September 20 September 2026
Photography exhibitions spread across some fifteen iconic locations in the Aubrac region, around Nasbinals. Phot’Aubrac festival 2026 PHOT’Aubrac is a nature, wildlife, and human photography festival whose ambition is to promote the diversity of photographic perspectives on our planet through environmental issues, biodiversity, climate, the sixth mass extinction, sustainable development, and more. The festival takes…
Southern Lozère Rally, France
29 August 30 August 2026
ASA Lozère is a passionate and committed association dedicated to motorsport in Lozère. Affiliated with the French Federation of Motorsport, it works year-round to promote, organize, and support motorsport competitions. Thanks to its volunteers, officials, partners and licensees, ASA Lozère organizes iconic events such as the Lozère Rally, the Lozère Terre Rally and the La…
Mordorfest: a free and committed festival
14 August 18 August 2026
Born in 2018 from the passion of independent and experimental music enthusiasts, MordorFest draws on over ten years of experience organizing concerts in Lozère. Run by a team of volunteers, the festival offers a unique musical experience, open to all styles and curiosities. Located in Nasbinals, in the heart of the Aubrac Regional Natural Park,…
Détours du Monde Festival
11 July 18 July 2026
Every summer, the village of Chanac hosts ‘Détours du Monde’, a must-see festival in Lozère dedicated to discovery, music and an openness to the world. For several days, artists from all corners of the globe gather in the heart of the Lozère region to share their cultures and musical worlds. Concerts, meet-ups, shows and entertainment…
Transhumance in Aubrac
23 May 24 May 2026
Every spring, a unique spectacle draws curious onlookers, nature lovers, and those passionate about rural traditions: the Transhumance of Aubrac cows, in the heart of the Aubrac Regional Natural Park. In the Massif Central, between Aveyron, Cantal, and Lozère, the herds make their way to the summer pastures, guided by their herders and teams of…
The Malzieu Medieval Festival
15 May 17 May 2026
For three days, the streets of Le Malzieu will come alive, briefly recapturing the bustling spirit of the Middle Ages. Musicians, jesters, storytellers, and singers will enchant you, and a few surprises await—but shh… it’s a secret! The grand medieval market will amaze you with its diverse array of products. Be sure to stop by…
On the route to the lakes of Lozère and the burons
The rest of our morning is a succession of roads and breaks. We’ve got the whole weekend ahead of us, so we’re taking our time! Just enough time to admire the olive-coloured pastures, dotted here and there with the silvery ribbons of the Pesquio and the Bès.
Time to enjoy a cup of coffee at the Relais des Lacs, just a stone’s throw from the Refuge des Rajas, where a legendary scene from the film *Saint-Jacques… La Mecque* was filmed. It’s also time to pop into the Buron de la Treille, the last remaining buron still in use! But what exactly is a buron? These massive granite buildings were built by shepherds from the 18th century onwards to ensure cheese production during the summer grazing season.
Nowadays, many of these buildings house restaurants or accommodation. But at the Buron de la Treille, they still produce Fourme de Laguiole! With AOP certification, no less! With our saddlebags weighed down by 500 grams of cheese, we carry on towards Lake Saint-Andéol, a glacial lake with mesmerising reflections. Then on to Lake Born and its eponymous buron. The aligot is calling us.
Enjoying aligot with a view
Keen to make the most of the sunshine flooding the Aubrac on this lovely spring day, and the view over Lake Born, we opted for the terrace. But not before taking a quick look at the lovely dining room with its exposed stonework and its fireplace, which is very popular in the evenings (we’re at an altitude of over 1,200 metres, so at night it’s best to bring a light jumper or enjoy a cosy fire!).
As for the menu, we’d choose the aligot with a cut of Aubrac beef without a moment’s hesitation. Aubrac without aligot wouldn’t really be Aubrac, would it? To start with, a gargantuan charcuterie platter. And we mean what we say. The proof: we won’t even manage to finish it all. Knowing us, that’s quite rare!
Next comes the main course. Mmm, what a treat! The aligot melts in the mouth, as does the beef. It turns out we were still hungry! And just as well, because the platter of mountain cheeses is on its way. Then the Bastide tart, the owner’s speciality. Well, at this stage, we can safely say we’re full. And we can also say that this won’t be our last visit to the Buron de Born…
Admiring the Déroc Waterfall
One last glance at Lake Born, and off we go again, heading north. We can smell the delicate scents of the flowers dotting the meadows and feel the wind on our faces. We can hear the murmur of the streams and the birdsong. Lake Souveyrols and its anglers come into view on our left, followed by Lake Salhiens. This will be the last glacial lake on our trip through the Aubrac, so it’s time for a break.
Especially as, on the other side of the D52, a small path winds its way through the pastures. It’s a path we can’t wait to explore, because at its end, after about a 10-minute walk, stands the jewel of the Lozère Aubrac: the Cascade du Déroc.
Waving to the cows lining the path, we’re enjoying the walk – a welcome change after a hearty lunch. When suddenly, there it is. Standing 30 metres tall, the Cascade du Déroc lives up to its reputation. The view over the Marchastel plain is breathtaking, whilst the basalt boulders hidden behind the waterfall are somewhat reminiscent of the Giant’s Causeway… Believe us, the camera certainly didn’t go idle!
In the village of Nasbinals
Goûter à l’ambiance du Chemin de Compostelle
Leaving the D52 for the D900, we arrive at the charming little village of Nasbinals. Only 500 people live here, yet it’s a lively place. And with good reason: Nasbinals is one of the key stops on the Via Podiensis, the most famous route to Santiago de Compostela!
In the main square, we enjoy a steaming cup of Aubrac tea before strolling through the village’s narrow streets, steeped in old-world charm, and visiting its pretty Romanesque church with its octagonal bell tower. Then, we set off in turn on ‘the’ Trail, the GR65. Following the red and white markings for a few kilometres, we feel the raw power of the Aubrac and the irresistible call of the Trail.
We meet some walkers who set off from Santiago de Compostela and are walking the GR in the opposite direction. What determination – they’ve already clocked up nearly 1,400 kilometres! As for us, it’s back to Nasbinals for an authentic evening just the way we like it. At ‘La Route d’Argent’, we mingle with the locals, walkers and pilgrims, chatting and having a laugh… and we can’t resist the temptation of another plate of aligot!
A 5½-hour drive from Lausanne? It would take more than that to put Valentine off coming to explore Lozère! First stop: ‘the Aubrac and its treasures’ (and that’s Valentine’s own words!). Through her eyes and her lens, (re)discover the Cascade du Déroc, the Buron de Born and the spa resort of La Chaldette.
Aubrac tea
Tea, in Lozère? Why, yes! Well, almost. The large-flowered Calament thrives in the woodlands of the Aubrac, at an altitude of over 1,000 metres. Long used by locals for its invigorating properties, it is now grown by several producers who have formed a cooperative. ‘La Grange au Thé’ is a tea room and shop in Nasbinals, selling loose-leaf tea as well as treats and body care products made from Aubrac tea.
Relaxing at La Chaldette
A spa resort in the Aubrac region
Day two in the Aubrac. The sun rises, bathing the plateau in soft colours. The pilgrims head west, whilst we set off northwards. On the agenda: a 15-kilometre drive, guaranteed to be 100 per cent invigorating at this time of day! No lakes by the roadside today, but pastures stretching as far as the eye can see, bordered by stone walls and solitary trees.
And at the end of the road: Brion. But what is there to do in Brion? Relax, of course! It is here, on the banks of the Bès in the heart of the Aubrac, that the La Chaldette spa resort is situated.
Made entirely of glass and steel, it seems to blend seamlessly with nature. This feeling is heightened when we step into the jacuzzi and find ourselves looking out over meadows, flowers, forests… and even a few Aubrac cows! Total relaxation guaranteed! After soaking in the jacuzzi, sweating out all those nasty toxins in the hammam and sunbathing on the solarium, it’s time for a massage. Pure bliss, after a weekend in the Aubrac… and a gentle way to round off our getaway in Lozère.
Plan your stay
How do I get there?
- By car, from Montpellier, take the N109 westwards to join the A750. When you reach Clermont-l’Hérault, continue on the A75 towards Clermont-Ferrand. Leave the motorway at junction 40, ‘Banassac / La Canourgue’. You’ve arrived!
- By train: La Canourgue is on the Béziers–Saint-Chély-d’Apcher TER line.
