This year, for the winter holidays, we didn’t fancy queuing for the chairlift or spending hours in the car. We’d much rather have a rest and enjoy the peace and quiet of the countryside. So we booked a holiday cottage on Mont Lozère. Our children were a bit sceptical at first. “Where on earth is Mont Lozère?” was their first reaction. We told them they’d be able to go skiing, sledge and go snowshoeing. That we’d visit a knights’ village and that there’d be chestnut cake (their favourite cake!). And so, one winter’s morning, we packed our bags and set off for Le Mas de la Barque!
- 600 €
- Accommodation for 4 people
- 7 days
- Rental
“Where it all ends!”
Our arrival at the Mas de la Barque
Saturday, the first day of the holidays. The boot’s packed, the sat-nav’s set: let’s go! The scenery rolls by through the window, constantly changing.
In Génolhac, the road becomes narrow and winding, and it isn’t long before the snow makes an appearance. A real fairytale setting! And it is against this backdrop that we discover ‘Fageolle’, our holiday cottage – our cosy little nest for the week.
Sauna, raclette and a fireplace…
Antoine and Lisa, our two little angels aged 7 and 9, have set their hearts on the mezzanine bedrooms, “with a view of the stars”. We’re happy to let them have them, as the ground-floor bedroom is right next to the sauna. A sauna we fully intend to try out!
But before that, we need to go and find some wood to light the fire. On snowshoes!
Once the fire’s alight, we get out the raclette machine, the cheese, the cold meats and the potatoes. The ultimate winter dish, made even better by the view of the snow-covered trees…
We’re trying out cross-country skiing
By choosing Lozère for our holiday, we wanted to enjoy the great outdoors, but also to try out some new winter sports. Because downhill skiing is great fun, but there’s more to life than that!
So we head to the reception at the Mas de la Barque and hire our first pair of cross-country skis. We soon get the hang of it: it’s really great to be able to glide along on the snow, both downhill and uphill!
As we’re all beginners, we’ve opted for the ‘Mejarie’ circuit with its 6.4 kilometres of groomed, blue-marked runs. Out here amongst the trees, there’s not a sound to be heard – just the sound of our skis. And believe us, that silence does you a world of good. Even the children seem to be enjoying it. They don’t say a word… until their stomachs start rumbling! So we whip out the magic potion: the flask of hot chocolate!
Off to the Pic de Cassini!
High up on the roof of Lozère… or nearly there
This morning, we’re setting our children a challenge: to climb all the way to the top of Pic de Cassini, Lozère’s second-highest peak, on snowshoes! That’s a 250-metre climb, after all. Gulp!
Yet you don’t notice the kilometres passing by, nor the elevation gain. Because, yes, it’s uphill, but it’s so beautiful! There are fir trees as far as the eye can see, covered in a white blanket. Their needles are frozen solid. And then suddenly, the trees disappear and you can see the triangle marking the summit. We’re here, at an altitude of 1,680 metres. A selfie is a must! In the distance, you can make out the Canigou, the Auvergne volcanoes and even Mont Blanc!
With our eyes still sparkling, we begin the descent towards the Mas de la Barque and its inn. On the menu: a hearty plate of aligot, a local speciality that’s just the thing for regaining our strength. And for dessert, a slice of chestnut cake. Yum!
When snow becomes a playground
Friends first!
Today is a day of rest and brunch. We’ve ordered croissants from the Auberge. And yes, at the Mas de la Barque, we’re right in the heart of the countryside; there aren’t any shops, so we have to place an order. But it’s still much more fun to walk to fetch the croissants than to drive!
Next, off to the toboggan run. Antoine and Lisa didn’t take long to make a bunch of friends! They went down the run again and again, then set up an obstacle course… and a slalom, before having a snowball fight. One thing’s for sure: out in the countryside, the children always find something to keep themselves busy, and they really burn off some energy! So, by 9 pm, they’re fast asleep… and we get to enjoy a romantic evening together in the sauna!
Mont Lozère isn’t just about skiing!
The mountain has a soul
On Thursday morning, we headed for Villefort and its market. Little by little, the snow gave way to the stalls of local producers. Strolling through the aisles, we stocked up on goat’s cheese, honey and smoked trout from Lake Villefort.
The children don’t need much persuading to try some fouace, a brioche flavoured with orange blossom. It has to be said, it’s delicious!
A journey through time
A trip to La Garde-Guérin
We then climb higher again, delighted to be back amongst the pristine landscapes. And there, amidst the snow: a village straight out of the Middle Ages – La Garde-Guérin.
Protected from bandits by thick ramparts, beautiful granite houses line the cobbled streets. There is also a bread oven, a church and a wash house.
And the highlight of the show: the 18-metre keep. No wonder La Garde-Guérin is ranked amongst the most beautiful villages in France!
It’s only a temporary farewell. Lozère will see us again… soon!
We won’t lie to you – when it’s time to close up the gîte and hand back the keys, we all feel a bit sad. We don’t want to leave behind all these things: the snow, the countryside, the snowshoes, the log fire, our friends, the sauna, the aligot! And there’s still so much left to discover at the Mas de la Barque, starting with ski touring!
But we’ve got no choice – we’ve got to get back to work and school. So, to combat the general gloom, we’re stocking up on chestnut cake to add a bit of ‘Lozère’ to our breakfasts. And we’ve made a promise to ourselves: to come back next winter!
Plan your stay
How do I get there?
- By car or carpool: the A75 runs very close to Aumont-Aubrac: take exit 36 if travelling from the south and exit 35 if travelling from the north.
- By tourist shuttle: in July and August, you can travel to Aumont-Aubrac from Mende on the Mende–Marvejols–Nasbinals shuttle.
- On foot, for long-distance travellers
