One day was all we had to get a proper breath of fresh air. To get back to basics: nature, snow, friends, good food. Not enough, you think? We’ll prove you wrong.
Put on your snowshoes and awaken the adventurer within you. We’re taking you up Mont Lozère, far off the beaten track. Think ‘Far North explorer’ style, complete with barbecues over a wood fire – but with a top-notch guidebook to help you avoid getting (too) lost!
- 8 €
- snowshoe rental
- 55 €
- Accommodation based on a double room
- 1
- Day
See you at Le Bleymard
Treat yourself to a bit of comfort… before you get started
A winter’s evening. An irresistible urge to get away from it all. A few text messages back and forth, and we’d arranged to meet in the village of Le Bleymard, at the foot of Mont Lozère, in an authentic restaurant called La Remise. Well, we weren’t about to set off on an adventure on an empty stomach, were we! Over a plate of pork specialities or a ‘coupétade’ (a traditional Lozère dessert made with bread, raisins and prunes), the reunion with friends turns into a real feast. Ideas for the next day soon start flowing. “What if we carved our own path through the powder?” “What if we played at being modern-day Robinsons?” The decision is made: we’ll be snowshoeing up the Finiels, reaching an altitude of 1,699 metres, and cooking our meal over an open fire…
We chose this hotel and restaurant, but you’ll find plenty of other places to stay on Mont Lozère
On Mont Lozère
Walking in Stevenson’s footsteps
After a good night’s sleep at Le Bleymard, dreaming of our “snowshoe adventure”, we stock up on sausages to grill, cheese and bread. We can’t wait for lunchtime! But in the meantime, we head for the Mont Lozère ski resort, just a 10-minute drive away. We hire our snowshoes at the resort – let the adventure begin! Leaving the resort and its skiers behind us, we quickly gain altitude on the GR70, the famous Stevenson Trail. Stone markers show us the way. These stone pillars once guided Robert Louis Stevenson and his donkey Modestine back in 1878! Very soon, only the crunch of snow beneath our feet breaks the silence. A sense of fulfilment, total disconnection.
Make your own trail through the snow to the hamlet of Finiels
Once we reached the ridges, after an hour’s walk, we pulled out our flasks. The coffee sent wisps of steam into the air. Because, let’s be honest, the cold is biting. And yet, we wouldn’t swap our spot for anything in the world. The shimmering reflections of snow-capped Mont-Lozère have cast a spell over us. With the flask stowed away, we leave the GR trail behind and head into the unknown. The descent towards the hamlet of Finiels takes us through the heart of a forest. A complete change of scenery. Another world to explore. The patterns etched by the wind on the bare ridges give way to the delicate footprints of a deer. And the more substantial ones left by our snowshoes in the powder snow.
In a mountain chalet
Lighting a fire when it’s -10 degrees
Eager to get down to business – the barbecue – we don’t linger in the narrow streets of Finiels. We find our way back to the Chemin de Stevenson with its red and white markers. But, like true adventurers, we set off in the opposite direction to the usual route!
Heading west, then north: a compass comes in handy, as the signposts, too, have donned their white coats! But after just under an hour of trudging through the fir trees, there it is: the forest shelter. Whilst some clear the snow from the door, others gather wood. All that remains is to strike a match and get the fire going. Not easy with wet wood! We take turns to blow on the embers. Once, then again. Success! The sausages taste like ‘we’ve really earned them’.
Finiels Peak
Climbing the highest peak in Lozère
It is with a slight twinge of sadness that we leave our chalet and resume our journey along the Stevenson Trail. The path climbs steeply; the going is tough. But soon, the forest gives way: there’s no doubt about it, the summit can’t be far now… Just a few more strides with our walking poles, and the summit of Mont Lozère welcomes us with open arms. At an altitude of 1,699 metres, we are the only ones enjoying the panoramic view from the Pic de Finiels.
Right before our eyes lie the Cévennes valleys, so dear to Stevenson’s heart. If you were to draw a line towards the horizon in this magical world, you’d almost expect to end up in Lapland… Yet it is indeed the Mont Lozère resort that awaits us 4 km further down!
The atmosphere is surreal – too magical to be true
Plan your stay
Where to eat, where to stay, what to do?
Discover all our top tips for an authentic and enjoyable trek along the Way of Saint Guilhem.
How do I get there?
- By car or carpool: the A75 runs very close to Aumont-Aubrac: take exit 36 if travelling from the south and exit 35 if travelling from the north.
- By tourist shuttle: in July and August, you can travel to Aumont-Aubrac from Mende on the Mende–Marvejols–Nasbinals shuttle.
- On foot, for long-distance travellers
