Become an adventurer for the weekend and paddle down the Gorges du Tarn in a canoe or kayak. Welcome to your next getaway!
Get away. Escape the city’s lethargy and get a breath of fresh air. Explore. Play at being budding adventurers with a great bunch of mates. Simply live life to the full. Spend a weekend canoeing or kayaking down the Gorges du Tarn. Marvel at the protected landscapes of this XXL gem in the Lozère. Spot the wildlife and feast your eyes on the flora. Dive, swim, paddle. And finally, let yourself be swept away by a wave of serenity. Welcome to your next getaway!
An impromptu weekend in Lozère
A spur-of-the-moment decision. It was on a spur-of-the-moment decision that we packed the car, started the engine and left the stifling atmosphere of our town that July. A weekend was all we had, but the prospect of two days in the heart of the countryside was already making us dream. Four hours later, we were there. In Lozère, in the tiny hamlet of Castelbouc. And no, that’s not a pleonasm. Castelbouc really is a tiny hamlet. A quick detour to the local canoe hire shop, and there we were, kitted out from head to toe. Ready to tackle the rapids of the Tarn.
The art of paddling on the Tarn
The first strokes of the paddle, the first sensations washing over us. In waves, like those rippling across the surface of the Tarn. Castelbouc and its ghostly-looking castle gradually disappear behind us. All that remains is the Tarn. And us. This part of the Gorges is more secluded, less frequented by tourists. It’s exactly what we needed. Peace and quiet. Entirely focused on the scenery around us, we feel ourselves breathing more freely. And it feels good. The trees leaning out over the water, the strangely shaped rocks reflected in it, the fish leaping out from time to time: Mother Nature manages to leave us speechless. And yet, we’re usually quite chatty by nature!
A sense of wonder at every bend
It is only the sight of Prades that restores our speech. Another hamlet, another castle. The limestone of the Gorges is mirrored by the limestone of the old mansions. It is impossible not to be awestruck by the Herculean task that the builders of yesteryear must have undertaken to create such marvels of stone.
The urge to take a break crosses our minds, but the call of the Tarn is even stronger. Especially as we’re approaching a bend in the river. And where there’s a bend, there’s a new landscape to discover round the corner. So we paddle even harder. The bright rays of the sun fill us with energy. It’s as if we were powered by solar-powered engines!
But suddenly, a shadow falls over our little convoy. An unexpected cloud? Our eyes shift from the cliffs to the sky. And what do we see? A vulture, a giant of the skies. Everything seems a little out of proportion in the Gorges du Tarn!
Here, the villages blend seamlessly with these limestone cliffs, which seem to plunge down from the causses like giant waterfalls. It’s a sight that humbles you, given the untamed beauty of this region
When Robinson sets up camp
We’ve barely recovered from our vulture-like excitement when tents start to appear on our right. It’s sardine time! Sardines, in the Tarn? No, here it’s the trout that are having a field day. But to pitch our camp, it’s sardines we’ll need. The little rascals have sneaked their way into the bottom of our tins. It would take a lot more than that, though, to discourage the Robinsons slumbering within us! In no time at all, our tents are up.
With a view of the river, please. What happened next that afternoon? You’ve probably guessed it – we couldn’t resist. After a boat trip on the Tarn, we treated ourselves to a lovely swim. Then a quick drink on the beach, with our toes spread out. What, we’d certainly earned it, hadn’t we?
A gourmet sunset in Sainte-Enimie
As the sun turns a glowing red and bathes the Gorges in liquid gold, we reach Sainte-Enimie. A short ten-minute walk was enough to whet our appetites. So we settle down on one of the village’s many terraces. There’s a cheerful buzz here, a real holiday atmosphere. There’s no doubt about it: we’re right in the beating heart of the Gorges du Tarn. One delicious dish follows another: Lozère lamb, trout from the nearby river, and even ‘coupétade’, a rather unusual prune cake. As we leave the table, a post-lunch stroll is in order. It’s just as well, as Sainte-Enimie is one of the most beautiful villages in France. Cobbled alleyways, medieval houses, a Benedictine monastery, a miraculous spring: we don’t know where to look first! We’d love to have climbed up to the hermitage, but we need to save our energy for the next day. However, a stroll through the night market? We’d say yes, yes and yes again: we’ve got to fill our bellies!
The joys of waking at dawn
A few hours later, we were roused from our sleep by the sound of birdsong and the first rays of sunlight. What a change from the shrill sound of an alarm clock! Determined to enjoy the Gorges in the tranquillity of the morning, we set off straight away.
Sainte-Enimie is still asleep as we pass under its bridge. The wildlife, on the other hand, is wide awake. It, too, is making the most of the cool morning air. A heron watches us from its perch, and further on, a fisherman waves to us. The calm of those first few moments gives way to a faint sound, which grows louder and louder. We soon realise where the sound is coming from: a waterfall reminiscent of a tropical paradise suddenly looms before us. But there is also the bridge, which gracefully spans the Tarn at this point. And the hamlet of Saint-Chély-du-Tarn, the Gorges’ other gem.
The elusive and subtle flavour of the Gorges
Nature and architecture, tranquillity and turmoil – the Gorges form a whole that is not easily defined. You have to experience them to understand them. Wild yet bountiful, they have been inhabited for millennia. The troglodytic hamlet of Pougnadoires, which appears discreetly on our right, is there to remind us of this. Here, it really feels as though time has stood still!
Just a stone’s throw away, history offers us another example – one that’s less understated, more opulent, even downright monumental: the Château de La Caze. A four-star hotel. A swimming pool with views of the Gorges. A room listed as a Historic Monument. Well, we won’t be staying there this time, but we certainly won’t say no to a coffee on the panoramic terrace…
As for lunch – made entirely from local produce – we were told about a little secret beach opposite the hamlet of Hauterives. There’s no chance of being disturbed: the beach is only accessible by canoe!
Canoes and rowing boats only!
Just to clarify: it’s not just the beach that’s only accessible by river. Hauterives is too! A gondola crosses the Tarn to ferry supplies from the main road to the hamlet. And for people, it’s all done by boat. The rowing boat was the preferred means of transport in the Gorges… until 1905.
And besides, when you arrive at La Malène, what do you see on the horizon? Boats, and boatmen. Standing at the stern of their boats, the boatmen row skilfully. They manoeuvre with finesse between the rocks and the kayakers, whilst recounting the history of the Gorges to their passengers. You can sense the weight of their experience. In fact, when we asked one of them when the tradition of riverboating began, he replied… in the 14th century. Well, with just two days’ canoeing experience under our belts, we’ll find it hard to compete!
Like a waking dream
Gliding alongside the boatmen, we too venture into the narrowest part of the Gorges. There we come across some curious rock formations, such as this pair of rocks that seem to be entwined for eternity.
Next comes a sort of mushroom. Could we be dreaming? Yet we’re pretty sure we haven’t eaten any… hallucinogenic mushrooms! A boatman passing by comes to our rescue: the mushroom is very real. It came into being when the Gorges road was built, and a rock arch was cut in two… creating the so-called mushroom. Phew, we’re reassured. And ready to enter the Straits, where the Gorges reach a depth of 500 metres.
A must-see! We’re globetrotters and discover majestic wonders all over the world. The Gorges du Tarn are one of them! Both breathtaking and sublime. […] We have an 8-year-old daughter and a 14-year-old son, and they both loved it.
Plan your stay
Where to eat, where to stay, what to do?
Find all our top recommendations for a holiday in the Gorges du Tarn.
Interpretation center
PANORAMA FROM THE SUBLIME POINT
Panoramas
Panoramas
How do I get there?
- By car: via the D907bis (a 2-hour 15-minute drive from Montpellier). Private or public car parks depending on the car hire company: it’s best to arrive early during the summer to make it easier to find a parking space!
- By tourist shuttle bus (during July and August) – connections available from Mende railway station
